Wednesday, 14 December 2016

Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum and Museum and a Hanoi FoodTour.Tue/Wed. (Day 6, 7)


We headed for the Ba Dinh Square which is the precinct NW of the old town where the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum is located.

Went past some low standard housing typical of any big city...
 

.. but also crossed up-market, wealthier areas. The streets below included several embassies and consulates - again dominantly yellow with green shutters.
 



The HCM Mausoleum and Museum precinct was tightly controlled and crowds were moved through gateways and doorways. Backpacks and large bags had to be checked in.
 


The Mausoleum was dominant on the skyline as crowds moved slowly along in single file around the outside.



The Mausoleum was huge and visitors moved forward in respectful silence.
 

No cameras were allowed and I wasn't about to test the resolve and vigilance of the white-uniformed guards who looked suitably stern.
 

It's all a bit macabre! Found a photo online from HCM's funeral. He is still 'lying in state' but the actual casket is much grander. The line of visitors shuffle in and move around the 3 sides in about 30-40 seconds then out again, probably no closer than 4-5 m from the casket. The site is open only for a few hours each day. Guess it's too tiring for HCM if the hours are longer.
  

The photo below was from the other side (out the 'back') where the visitors can roam with a tad more freedom along the paths.
  

Nearby was the very splendid residence built in early 1900s by the French for the Governor-General of Indochina, back when France colonised the whole peninsula. Ho Chi Minh refused to live in such luxury when the republic was established, so now it is used just for formal occasions and big-deal visitors.
  

HCM chose to live in a relatively smaller residence below in the same precinct.




Some rooms have been re-furbished and glass full-length windows installed so visitors can see the spaces. (This caused problems for photos with reflections but we still got the idea)
  

His bedroom was quite simple.
 

Across the lake was his 'summer residence' where many high-level talks took place. Again, the buildings were quite simple and sparse.
 



... and the view back across the lake from the summer residence towards his usual house.
 

The small Buddhist temple and shrine where HCM worshipped.
  

The mangoes were large in size and number.
 

Couldn't resist taking the photo below. This is the retractable covering for walkways around the precinct and locks into small anchors embedded into the path. Keeps visitors dry, out of the sun and controlled within a defined path. Quite ingenious.
 

Left it too late to visit the HCM Museum next to the Mausoleum so decided to come back next day. Instead, we walked into town and visited the National Museum of History.
 

This had numerous rooms tracing through Vietnam's history. It was unashamedly biased because winners write history, but it did label many documents as 'propaganda' which was an indicator they realised their bias.
  


Below shows HCM in 1945 calling for Hanoians to show resistance in the August Revolution in front of the Opera House.
 

... and HCM with troops in 1957 - so this was during the independence struggle against the French government. (It should be clarified that Vietnam's resistance against colonial French government was supported by many French)
 

The photo below from the Vietnam War (aka American Invasion) has been used extensively in the west as an iconic image of US soldiers supporting their mates (resilience, determination, loyalty etc). The label in the Museum read ... 'American soldiers held each other to run away ...'  No surprises - winners write history.
  

Kate had booked a 'food tour' for the evening and it was sensational!  A small group of westerners (English tourists plus Kate and me) visited about 8 eateries around Hanoi and had a food 'course' at each. The places tended to be nondescript, ordinary places which tourists might hustle past and were certainly not the high profile eateries. The guide had good command of the language and explained many aspects of Vietnamese food as well as some other cultural things. The food was exceptional. Yes.. I am certainly no 'foodie' and was brought up on 'meat and three veg' but I could easily eat authentic Vietnamese very often.
  


Next morning we walked back to the HCM Museum next to the Mausoleum.
 



Needless to say, HCM is depicted in a very favourable light as a dedicated freedom fighter, which is probably true, but History is never clear-cut, so I'll leave the research and reading to individuals.
 


A life-like reconstruction.
 

On the walk back to our hotel before departure, we had to sample again 'egg coffee' which was very nice!  Could perhaps be described as an 'egg-flip' with a shot of espresso.
 

.. and the bridge over the floodplain heading for the airport was spectacular indeed.
 

Tuesday, 13 December 2016

Transport Infrastructure, Safety, Watch where you walk! ... and some street-trader 'biffo'

We spent some time just sitting at a busy corner and watching the passing traffic! Of course, we needed a local beer to enjoy.
  

Some remarkable loads were carried on scooters. This is but a sample!
 
The 'tradies' used 3-wheeled scooter-trucks to deliver building materials to inner city sites. Well, most did. We saw several extension ladders, long pipes etc go past, but we were too slow with the camera. Even a mannequin dressed in a suit!
 
Traditional carry methods were used also. Some were for tourist benefit, but most were for genuine use.
  
On nearly every corner, there were 'taxis' available, which meant scooters or motor bikes with capacity for 1 passenger. The drivers seemed relaxed, or asleep, while waiting, so business must be slow.
 
The electrical infrastructure looked complicated. Not sure how you would troubleshoot if the power goes out on the 4th floor!
  
While walking the streets of Hoi An and Hanoi, we did hear the news of a $100,000 pay out to a Maccas worker in Australia where the cleaners failed to put out the yellow triangle warning sign that the floor was wet. Much easier in Vietnam! You have to watch where you're walking or you'll trip over, bang your head on, fall into or slip on the numerous hazards. Not sure I read anything about risk assessments either! Have we made our living environment too sanitised? Below are just a sample of the footpath hazards! No texting and walking here!!! 
   
... and a photo from Hoi An ... same issue.
  

Helmets for riders on scooters are optional.... apparently. Some placed greater emphasis on protecting the lungs from the traffic fumes.... even for the little ones. In fairness, the speed was low and one of our guides told us fatalities are very low in cities, but skyrocket on the open road where speeds increase. Apparently a fatality every 2-3 minutes in the population of 95 million. Perhaps an indicator might be that in our short 6 days in Hoi An and Hanoi, we saw no traffic accidents and only two ambulances running lights and sirens, and they were within 10 minutes of each other. Then again, was this a measure of accident rate or a measure of supply of emergency services?
 
We walked past two street hawkers who were having a full-on argument, probably about who trades in the area. Didn't see blows laid, but it got close! Later, neither was there so perhaps the law moved in.
  
Another practice we saw occasionally on the streets was the burning of fake, paper money outside premises. This is a Buddhist offering, usually after a death in the household, to seek good luck from the ancestors. The 'wads' of fake money were readily available in the markets.